MISIR; NİL’İN ARMAĞANI, NİL’E ARMAĞAN
- Author Gülen Yalçınkaya Özelçi
- In GEZİ&TARİH
- Date 5 Ocak 2016
Firavunun, gizemli mumyaların ve esrarengiz piramitlerin sürprizlerle dolu ülkesi, Mısır. Bu ülke hakkında kimi zaman yemekle ilgili olsun, güvenlik ve temizlikle ilgili olsun pek çok olumsuzluktan bahsedilen bir ülkedir. Oysaki bu olumsuz söylentilerin arkasını görebilene saklar göz kamaştırıcı tarihini, Afrika güneşi ile harmanlanmış Orta Doğu konukseverliğini.
Mısır, sahip olduğu herşeyi Nil’e borçludur. Herodotos’un dediği gibi “Mısır, Nil’in armağanıdır.” Kültürü ile ayrı, çevresi ile ayrı zenginlikler barındırır Nil ve çevresi. Kimi zaman verimli bir muz tarlası yansır Nil’in yeşil sularına, kimi zaman yorgun balıkçı teknelerindeki gülümsemeler.
Mısır’ın tarihi M.Ö. 4500 lerde neolitik kültürle başlamış. Hanedanlar öncesi krallık dönemlerinin ardından Yunan ve Roma egemenlikleri de Mısır’a hükmetmiş. Bizans’tan sonra Müslüman Araplar, Fatimiler ve Memluklar da Mısır’da hüküm sürmüş. Osmanlıların Mısır’ı ele geçirmesi 1517 yılında gerçekleşmiş ve buraya yerleşmeleriyle, başta Kahire olmak üzere sanatta ve mimarlıkta birkaç asırdır süregelen İslam etkisi doruk noktaya ulaşmış. Özellikle Kahire’nin cadde ve sokaklarını süsleyen zarif minareli camilerin yanı sıra, evler, saraylar, bedestenler ve çarşılar, Osmanlı yönetiminden hatıra kalmış. Süveyş Kanalı gibi stratejik bir kanala sahip olan Mısır, Fransız ve İngilizler arasında el değiştirdikten sonra bağımsızlığına kavuşmuş.
Dünyanın yedi harikasından ikisine ev sahipliği yapan Mısır, İskenderiye’deki anıtsal deniz fenerini depremlerle ve savaşlarla kaybetmiş olsa da, Giza’daki piramitlerle zamana meydan okumaktadır. Antik adı Letopolis olan Kahire’nin gömü alanı olan Giza, irili ufaklı piramitlerinin yanı sıra, tanınmış sfenks heykeliyle de ünlü. Modern yerleşime tepeden bakan üç piramidin en büyüğü, Keops’un yaptırdığı piramit. M.Ö. 2500’lerde yaptırılan Keops piramidi aynı zamanda dünyanın en büyük piramidi. Şimdiki yüksekliği 137 m. Kenar uzunluğu 230 m. Olan bu anıt mezar çöl rengi kumların arasında tüm heybetiyle yükselmektedir. Büyük piramidin yanındaki diğer piramitler, Kefren ve Mikerinos. Üç piramidin de yanlarında yer alan daha küçük piramitler, firavunların eşleri ya da kardeşleri için yapılmış olanlar. Büyük bir anıt mezar alanı olan Giza, Kefren piramidinin ilerisinde yer alan dev sfenks heykeli ile de çok etkileyicidir. Bu dev sfenksin uzunluğu 73 m, yüksekliği ise 21 m dir.
Kahire’den sonra ilk akla gelen yerleşmelerden biri Luksor’dur. Günümüzden 4000 yıl önce Eski Mısır’ın en önemli tanrısı Amon Ra için yaptırılan Luksor’daki anıtsal tapınağa ulaşan caddenin her iki yanını süsleyen sfenksleri arasından 24 m yüksekliğindeki anıtsal girişin görkemi ile karşılaşılmaktadır. Az ileride 14 m yüksekliğindeki II.Ramses’in oturan heykelleri tüm haşmetiyle yer almaktadır. Luksor’daki diğer nefes kesici yapı hiç kuşkusuz Karnak’taki Amon Tapınağı’dır. Dünyada bugüne dek inşa edilmiş en büyük dini kompleks olarak nitelendirilen tapınağa ulaşan yol, koç başlı sfenks heykelleri ile donatılmış. Tapınağın içinde yer alan farklı tanrı, tanrıça ve krallara adanmış mekanların yanı sıra kutsal havuz, hayvanat ve botanik bahçesi de ilgi çekici bölümlerden bazıları.
Modern kente geçiş yaptığımızda Nil kıyısındaki kafeler iyi bir başlangıçtır. Geleneksel tatlardan hibiskus çayı ve nane çayından içtikten sonra Luksor çarşısında papirüsçüler ve kitapçılar dolaşılır. Mısır’da en çok şaşırtacak konu yiyecek konusudur. Herkesin ısrarla ve ağız birliği etmişçesine uyarılarına rağmen yemek sorununun hiç yaşanmadığı görülmektedir. Birkaç asır Osmanlı yönetiminde kalan ülke Türk yemeklerini benimsemiş hatta değişik denemelerle farklı lezzetler elde etmiş. İmam bayıldı ve musakka Türkçe isimleri ile sipariş edilebilen birkaç yemekten. Ulusal yemek olarak da Koshari sayılabilir. Makarna, pirinç ve mercimekle yapılan bu yemek hemen her restoranda tadılabilecek bir yemektir.
Mısır’dan ayrılırken aslında burada hiçbir şeyin sona ermediği düşünülür. Akıllarda binlerce yıllık piramitlerin zamana direnişleri, firavunların ölüm sonrası hazırlıklarının zenginliği, uçsuz bucaksız çöl, nefes kesen tapınaklar.Eski Mısır’ın yitik tanrıları tarafından uğurlanır ve gökyüzü tanrısı Horus tarafından kucaklanarak yolculanılır.
Author: Gülen Yalçınkaya Özelçi
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